Being passionate about the restaurant scene in New Orleans, I visit all the new spots opening around town. In doing so, I’ve found myself increasingly surprised at the number of new bars and eateries that are part of conglomerates run by the same chef or hospitality group.
Hearing many of the chefs responsible for this phenomenon speak at Bookfest and in various interviews has helped me see both the good and bad of the rise of hospitality groups in New Orleans.
Restaurant profit margins are paper thin, and as a result, many are closing. Hospitality groups work to centralize management, accounting and operations across restaurants to increase efficiency and revenue.
The benefit of being part of a hospitality group means less worrying about bills and more focus on creativity in the kitchen. The safety net of the group can provide freedom to experiment without the potential disastrous consequences of losing business.
But when restaurants that share a city and a hospitality group serve very similar dishes, it is a detriment to the uniqueness and authenticity of the culinary scene overall.
Another impact of the hospitality groups I’ve noticed is an increasing number of happy hour openings from restaurants that were normally only open for dinner, including personal favorites such as Osteria Lupo and Gianna. These lower-cost options make higher-end restaurants more accessible and get more people through the door, making margins more comfortable.
While some new eateries from the same restauranters fill a niche within the dining scene — Dolfy’s and Café Conmigo come to mind — others seem to play it safe with the tried-and-true cuisine of their sister businesses.
The dining scene in New Orleans is particularly special. There is a strong sense of community between famous and local chefs. From shoutouts for Emeril’s and local spots like Phở Tầu Bay Restaurant to the conversation around food on social media, there is room for every restaurateur in this city.
While food should be the star of the dining experience, many hospitality groups know that service plays an important factor. Places like Commander’s Palace seem to understand this on a fundamental level, and people keep coming back for more.
On a panel of influential New Orleans chefs and restaurant owners at Book Fest, Ti Martin, Dook Chase and John Stubbs all agreed hospitality was more important than food. They discussed how, for young chefs, good hospitality is harder to deliver than good food.
For me, the heart and soul of New Orleans is in spots like Z’otz and Snake and Jakes. Flyers from local groups litter the walls, and weekly events cultivate a sense of community.
It’s important that new businesses and hospitality groups are careful not to impose on New Orleans’ well-established dining scene. The quintessential spots are what keep people in love with New Orleans, so we must use an additive approach to the dining scene rather than replacing beloved eateries.
There’s no right or wrong answer to whether hospitality groups are the future or the downfall of the industry. As long as they keep supporting up-and-coming chefs and promoting both New Orleans and global cuisine, I will happily support businesses adding to the culinary scene. At the same time, supporting our local small businesses run by neighbors, friends and family is vital.